You will need to use pliers to straighten the two bent ends of the cotter pin before you can remove it. If the pin is stuck, try spraying it the a penetrating lubricant from a hardware or automotive store. [2] X Research source The lubricant should actually help with the axle nut as well.
Unfortunately, axle nuts do not have a standard size, and the socket size required will be different for different vehicles. The parts department at a certified dealership for your vehicle make should be able to tell you the exact size if you want to check before starting the project.
Double-check that the vehicle is in park and that the parking brake is engaged before jacking up the vehicle.
If you have concerns about using jack stands, consult Use Jack Stands for more information.
If you need guidance for this step, you can consult Change a Tire for assistance.
The caliper will be held in place on the rear side of the rotor by bolts in a mounting bracket. The specific configuration will depend on your make and model year vehicle. The mounting bracket most commonly uses 17mm bolts. Since the caliper is connected to your vehicle’s brake line, you want to keep slack in the brake line instead of letting it hang. You can easily suspend the caliper from a short bungee cord to keep it out of your way without putting too much stress on the brake line. [3] X Research source
Like the axle nut, this bolt may be held in place with a cotter pin. Penetrating lubricant may help you more easily remove the pin and bolt. The tie rod may still be pretty snug in the steering knuckle even after removing the bolt. Tape the steering knuckle joint with a hammer (hitting the knuckle where the rod goes through and not the threaded portion of the tie rod) to help remove it. [5] X Research source You might need to separate the ball joint to get the lower control on the steering knuckle out of the way.
Since these are actual bolts, you will need to secure the head of the bolt while loosening the nut, or it will just turn. [6] X Research source
If the axle doesn’t immediately come loose, try twisting it back and force to break the seal. [8] X Research source It’s normal for some transmission fluid to leak out as you remove the axle from the cv joint. You should put down a catch pan. On your vehicle, the axle may have to pass through an enclosed piece called a wishbone before it’s completely free. You can remove the band from the inner boot to help the old axle pass through. [9] X Research source
There is a small C-clip on the axle that you will feel snap into place. [11] X Research source If the axle isn’t quite flush, you can use a rubber mallet to gently tap it into place. [12] X Research source
Any old cotter pins may be brittle, so you should replace them with new ones rather than reusing the old pins. [13] X Research source
After the wheel is on, you can lower the car off the jack and jack stands.
It’s not a bad idea to clean the threaded part of the axle with a brake cleaner in case any grease has gotten on it while feeding it through the hub. [14] X Research source
