Fear can easily send a rabbit into shock, and likewise their delicate bones are easily fractured by rough handling. All of this means that your pet rabbit should be treated with respect, and children (especially under the age of 10) should be supervised with a rabbit at all times. [4] X Research source
Also, be prepared to spend time every day cleaning the rabbit’s living space and spending quality time interacting and playing, so that the rabbit won’t become bored or lonely. If you can’t commit to this, then get a cuddly toy rather than a pet rabbit.
Also, proper veterinary care for rabbits costs the same as for a cat or dog, so don’t expect it to cost less just because the initial purchase price of the pet was lower. Prepare for veterinary expenses by taking out pet insurance, with some insurance companies now offering rabbit policies. Make a list of potential costs and add them up before buying the rabbit. Any prospective rabbit keeper must be prepared to provide for all their pet’s needs in terms of housing, good diet, health care, mental stimulation and exercise.
If you do house your Dutch rabbit outdoors, you need to make sure they have shelter from the rain, sun, and wind, and that the enclosure is predator proof.
If you have more than one rabbit then each animal should have the option of a separate hide so they can withdraw if they feel overwhelmed for any reason. The minimum length of an indoor hutch and run should be 4 foot (1. 2 m), but preferably 5 foot, and these are usually half as wide as they are long. They should be high enough to let the rabbit stand up on its hind legs without its ears touching the top. However, even with a run of this size, the rabbit should be allowed free roaming time everyday, so it gets plenty of exercise and time to forage, explore, and prevent boredom. [6] X Research source
Each rabbit should have its own shelter, where it can retreat if it feels stressed. If a rabbit is stressed its natural instinct is to hide, and providing hiding places goes a long way to reducing additional stress.
Make sure the floor is covered with a minimum of 2–3 inches (5. 1–7. 6 cm) depth of bedding. There are numerous substances that can be used for bedding, including straw (warm and soft), paper pulp (recycled material, safe and high absorbent), and shredded cardboard. [7] X Research source Traditionally sawdust was used for rabbit bedding but this can be dusty and also contains oils that are irritating to the rabbit’s lungs and therefore best avoided. [8] X Research source
Be aware that rabbits pass two different types of pellets: a small dry pellet that is entirely waste material and a larger sticky cecotrophy. The cecotrophy represents food that has passed through the gut but still contains nutrition and the rabbit needs to re-eat it. Never remove cecotropes from the litter tray or you could be depriving your rabbit of valuable nutrition.
The rabbit should have good quality green hay available 24/7 as the main portion of their diet. The chewing required keeps their teeth in trim and it provides vital fiber that keeps their digestion healthy.
Choose an extruded diet, which means each biscuit is identical. Avoid muesli type dry foods as the rabbit will selectively eat the tasty parts, which are also the unhealthy part (low fiber, low calcium, high calorie) and leave the less tasty but nutrition rich components.
Fresh foods to avoid include tomato leaves, potato tops, bracken, laburnum, yew, oak leaves, poppies, and rhubarb leaves
Desexing is commonly performed from around 4 months of age.
Seek urgent veterinary attention if you see any of these symptoms, as rabbit’s deteriorate rapidly when they are ill.
Ensure the house is “rabbit proof. " This means putting all electrical cables out of reach, as rabbits will gnaw through them and electrocute themselves.
If you are not confident picking a rabbit up, then consider wrapping it in a towel so it is supported and its claws don’t scratch you.
