Shelters and rescue groups often have a wider selection because some owners aren’t able to keep the Eastern box turtle for its full lifespan, which averages 40 to 50 years but can be much longer! Depending on its age, the average Eastern box turtle usually costs between $50 and $300, so budget accordingly. Keeping Eastern box turtles may be illegal or require special permits in some areas. Check your local laws and guidelines to make sure you are allowed to keep an Eastern box turtle as a pet.
Signs of illness may mean that the turtle won’t live for very long once you take it home. This is sad, but ultimately it’s better to choose a healthy turtle so that you can care for them for a long time. If many of the turtles you check look unhealthy or feel quite light, it may be a sign that the pet store or seller isn’t taking good care of their turtles—and it’s time to look elsewhere for a seller.
Don’t leave your turtle in an outdoor enclosure if you live somewhere with temperatures below 60 °F (16 °C) during the cooler months. Eastern box turtles love to burrow! To stop them from escaping, dig a trench around the perimeter and fill it with a single layer of bricks. Then, cover them with dirt and build the fence (or wall) above the bricks. If you don’t want to put up a fence, use cinder blocks or bricks to make an enclosure. Stack them around the perimeter of your space before covering the top with wire mesh to keep the turtle inside. Ensure that all the plants in your yard and any lawn chemicals you might use are safe for the turtle before creating an outdoor enclosure.
The tank’s walls should be at least 12 inches (30 cm) high, but you don’t need a lid to keep the turtle inside since it’s safe indoors. Glass tanks are a common choice, but it’s a good idea to cover the sides with paper if you get one. If your turtle can see outside the glass, it may try to escape and become distressed.
Natural light is the best source of UVB (Ultraviolet B) and UVA (Ultraviolet A) rays, which your turtle needs to stay healthy. If you invest in a heat lamp, ensure it emits UVB and UVA rays and keep it on for 12 to 14 hours daily. The UV lamp should be placed within 12 inches of your turtle. Replace the lightbulbs in your heat lamp every 6 months, as their UV emission gets lower with time and use, and no longer enough for your turtle. Write down the date on the bulb or make a note in your calendar.
Install thermometers on each end of the enclosure to ensure the temperatures are in the right range at all times. Though turtles can tolerate slightly lower temperatures at night, it’s best to keep the temperature above 60 °F (16 °C) and bring the turtle inside if the outdoor temperature drops.
In a larger outdoor enclosure, you can set up a smaller area designed for burrowing. Cover around half of the shaded area of your enclosure with a substrate to give your turtle a cool spot to dig in. Don’t use gravel, sand, potting soil, cat litter, or anything else particularly gritty as a substrate. Your turtle may end up ingesting it and become ill as a result.
Chlorine, which is found in most tap water, can be harmful to turtles. Use filtered or bottled water, or treat tap water with a water conditioner (available at your local pet store) to neutralize the chlorine.
Make sure any decorations you add sit sturdily on the ground and don’t fall over if nudged. Only use flat rocks in the enclosure. Your turtle will climb on the rocks no matter what, and rocks that are too tall may cause your turtle to fall and hurt itself.
Consult your veterinarian to find out exactly how much your turtle should eat daily since the amount varies based on their age and size. Feed your turtle by either dropping food in front of it in the enclosure or by holding the turtle in one hand and feeding it with the other.
Purchase feeder insects at your local pet store. Cut up hard vegetables into small pieces that your turtle can easily eat. Some turtles enjoy being fed, whereas others prefer hunting for their food. Try both methods of feeding to see which one your turtle enjoys more!
Chop tough or hard fruits into small, bite-sized pieces for your turtle. It might take some experimentation to find a treat that your turtle enjoys. Try different types of berries and fruits until you find something they love.
Wash your hands before and after handling your turtle to protect yourself from Salmonella. Check to see if your turtle is sleeping or eating before picking them up, as it’s best not to interrupt them. Behaviorally, box turtles are more shy than aggressive. If you see your turtle retreat fully into its shell, that’s a sign of stress. Give the turtle plenty of hiding spots around the enclosure to help them feel less exposed.
Once turtles become comfortable around their human (you), they can actually be quite social! After regular interactions, they might start recognizing your face and voice when you visit.
Turtles can push around a ball for stimulation. Plus, a treat ball can help pique their interest during feeding time. Don’t give your turtle anything small enough to accidentally swallow (unless it’s safe and edible, like moss balls).
Yearly check-ups can give you peace of mind and ensure your turtle is happy and healthy throughout life. Your veterinarian can also give you extra advice on caring for your turtle!
If your turtle lives outside, it could also be at risk for gastrointestinal parasites. Signs include a poor appetite and off-colored excrement.
If you want to know exactly how humid the enclosure is, purchase and install a tank hydrometer. Only use filtered, bottled, or treated, chlorine-free water to mist the enclosure.
If you keep multiple turtles, you may need to change the water more frequently to ensure it stays clean.
If you notice your turtle’s droppings become a white or grey color, it may be a sign that the turtle is ill. Take it to a vet as soon as possible for a checkup.
To ensure you don’t miss a cleaning, pick a designated day every couple of weeks that you can set aside to clean your turtle’s enclosure.
Feed your turtle a healthy, vitamin and fiber-rich diet in the summer months with enough nutrients to carry them through hibernation. Your vet may encourage you to keep the turtle inside and in a temperature-regulated area to keep them from hibernating if they’re not equipped for hibernation.
