Though some breeders will sell single gliders, gliders do much better in pairs or colonies. It’s much better to get two gliders if you want them to stay happy and healthy. [3] X Research source Starting the bonding process is as simple as wearing some fleece squares on your person for a few days, then putting them inside their sleeping pouch. They are very scent oriented and this will help them recognize you as part of their colony. Carrying them in a bonding pouch during the day is a great way to bond. They’ll mainly sleep and you can coax them into the pouch with treats. Carry them close to your chest and don’t let it bounce around too much. This also helps them get used to your scent. Give them treats, but not too many. Offer them when you wake them up to put them in a bonding pouch or when you want to play with them. This will help them understand they shouldn’t fear you. One useful technique for play time is “tent time. " Playing with your gliders in a tent allows them freedom to roam without worrying about making a mad dash to catch them before they end up somewhere you can’t coax them out of. Another great idea if you don’t have a tent is “tub time” where you can sit in a clean bathtub with them. Make sure a towel is covering the hole underneath the door, a plug is in the bathtub, and the toilet seat is down.
Neutering your male glider is highly recommended unless it has lineage to prevent possible inbreeding if paired with a female. If you have males together, it’s still better to have them neutered to help prevent fighting. [4] X Research source Try to find at least two emergency vets in the area and have their numbers in case something happens. Sugar Gliders often seem to get sick after regular business hours.
Calcium deficiency, which can cause paralysis and is preventable as long as you feed your gliders the correct diet. Some good diets are TPG, BML, and OHPW Constipation or indigestion Open wounds from getting scratched or caught on a sharp part of the cage Obesity due to eating too many fatty foods Stress caused by poor socialization or being alone UTI, which is easy to spot. The most common sign is hissing while using the bathroom.
Be watchful of other pets and loud noises that might scare them up a tree or into the drain pipe. They are very fast escapees. Do not use harnesses or leashes with Sugar Gliders. They can severely damage their patagium, neck, or spine.
Don’t stop using all the bonding techniques and keep playing with them even after they’re fully bonded. Even once bonded they’ll still want you to keep them company sometimes.
Avoid galvanized steel cages because they can rust and cause urinary tract infections in gliders. No need to worry about the direction of the bars. They have opposable thumbs and can climb easily on horizontal or vertical bars. Check that the wood if safe for gliders, of building or buying a wooden cage. Remember that wood is harder to clean and absorbs odors though.
Only use kiln dried bedding. The oils in other wooden bedding can cause health problems for sugar gliders. If you don’t want to buy bedding, you can use newspaper or another nontoxic material from around the house.
It’s important to make sure the nesting box is made from nontoxic materials. A fleece or 100% cotton (outside only) bag is a good choice, or an untreated manzanita, applewood, or eucalyptus bird house is good. It’s always good to enhance their lives and buy both. Hollowed-out coconuts are another popular choice. Provide more than one to add some variety.
Use eucalyptus branches. Attach them to the sides of the cage to replicate their natural environment, as well as cut down on smell and give them something to chew on. [6] X Research source Toys can be bought from vendors online, or made from plastic baby toys and chains. Always make sure they are safe though, with no places they could get stuck or pinched. [7] X Research source
Check online for ideas on how to make the best possible habitat for your gliders. Glider forums are filled with great ideas for toys and other interesting things to add to the cage. If your gliders are understimulated, they will become depressed. This can lead to long-term health problems.
Clean the cage itself one week, the pouches the next, and the toys the next. This will help prevent them from over making. You can use unscented baby wipes daily to wipe down particularly dirty sections. Use a vinegar and water mixture with a few drops of eucalyptus essential oil to clean the cage and toys. The pouches and any other fabric can be washed by hand or in the washer with a little unscented detergent and/or a cup of vinegar. Check for any loose pieces or seams in the cage, pouches, and toys when cleaning and repair or replace accordingly.
It may seem as though food prep for sugar gliders will take a lot of time, but once you get the hang of it you can prepare enough food for the whole month in one day. The important thing is to make sure you provide the right ration of protein, sugars, and fats, and ensure your gliders are getting the minerals they need to stay healthy. Do not feed sugar gliders dog food, cat food or other foods not meant for sugar gliders. They don’t contain the nutritional makeup that sugar gliders need to thrive. Do not feed garlic, rhubarb, onions, or anything in those families. Do not feed fresh lima beans. If bought frozen, they’re fine, but otherwise they need to be cooked.
Other snacks include fresh fruit, dried unsulfured papaya, dried unsulfured coconut, yogurt drops, pine nuts (in limited quantities), peas, and “lickey treats” which could be yogurt, applesauce or baby food. (Hawaiian Delight and chicken with apples are favorites. ) When choosing snacks avoid all artificial sweeteners, colors or other non-natural ingredients. Never feed sugar gliders plain sugar, candy, or chocolate, as these will cause health problems. Only white chocolate is safe, any other chocolate is toxic to them.
You can leave a tablespoon of glider cereal, sold by The Pet Glider, in their cage during the day in case they wake up and are hungry.
During the winter, consider using a space heater in the room with them and providing a cage cover or small fleece squares in their sleeping pouch as blankets.
Pellets should not be a part of their diet. While it is find for a snack or emergency food, this should not be a main part of any glider’s diet.
If your gliders do not have lineage proving they are not related, you shouldn’t breed them. If you have two males together they should be neutered as this helps prevent fighting.
They can over groom and pull out small tufts of fur, they may stop eating or running in their wheel and sometimes they may even start chewing on their tails which can lead to the tail having to be amputated. Even if you spend a lot of time with a lone glider, you can not speak their own language, you can not cuddle together with them in their sleeping pouch during the day, you can not groom each other like gliders do. They need cage mates. [9] X Research source
Consider adopting or rescuing. Many people purchase gliders as “impulse buys” because they are very cute, then come to regret the decision when they realize how much work is required in caring for them. You can usually find at least a few locally on Craigslist or Sale groups on Facebook. They will normally be much cheaper than buying joeys from a breeder. Also consider buying from a reputable breeder. They will charge less than a Mall, Fair, or Flea Market vendor, but usually more than a rescue or adopting.
