The cage bars should not be too small; the bird’s talons might get caught on or in them if the bar wires or lengths are too small. Equally, the bars should not be so large that the head of the bird could get trapped or the bird could squeeze through and escape. The bigger the space in the cage, the better. Although bird cages that are bigger tend to be harder to clean and are more expensive, if you are not in the house often or don’t have time to take the bird out for exercise, space in their cage is critical. Small cages can lead to behavior problems.
Do not buy guillotine-styled doors, since they are easier for the bird to escape from.
If keeping different species of birds, you’ll need to be sure that the animals are compatible when placed together.
Birds in hanging cages can often be transported outdoors to hang under a porch or similar place for daytime fresh air. Always remember to bring the bird back in before cool evening breezes and night air arrive. The location of the bird’s cage will also be affected by the bird’s personality. While a very social bird might love being the center of attention and seeing constant human traffic, a more nervous bird might be happier kept somewhere quieter and away from hustle and bustle (but still being able to interact with the family). Nervous birds may do better in the corner of a room or in an area with the back of their cage partially covered. Avoid placing a cage in front of a window permanently. The bird will be on the constant lookout for “enemies,” which can cause it to feel nervous. Putting a cage against a wall can give the bird a break from worrying about predators.
Keep a supply of papers hand; junk mail and old newspapers also work well. If you prefer a more traditional method of lining your bird’s cage for waste removal, line the bottom of the cage with wood chips, kitty litter, or sand.
Ensure that you have correct feed for the species of bird. You must find the correct food for your bird, as some birds are picky, while others have very strict dietary requirements. Usually the bag/can of food will have a label telling you which breed of bird it is for. If you don’t know what the best food choices are, ask the breeder, the retailer or leave a question on a specialized forum of people who care for this species of bird. Bird pellets, crumbles, or nuggets can be a good way of ensuring adequate nutrition for your bird. These tend to combine healthy seeds, vegetables, fruits, and grains, so the bird can eat a nutritionally balanced diet. These are preferable to a seed mix, which allows birds to pick out tasty seeds and leave the healthy ones behind. Feed new seed daily; always empty out the eaten shells the same day too, as this keeps the seed fresh and clean.
You can also give your bird nuts and cooked beans for flavor and variety with their meals.
Place the water dish at the opposite end of the bird’s cage from the food dish. This will force them to move around and be active to eat and drink. Dehydration can occur very quickly in birds, within 1 to 2 days without access to water.
Along with your daily cleaning of the cage, be sure to clean out the bird’s food and water dishes as well.
Smaller birds with a higher metabolism may need to be fed more often.
Or, encourage your talking bird to sing and talk for its food. You can also try interactive puzzle feeders, which allow the bird to mimic foraging behaviors it would use in the wild. This provides critical mental stimulation for your bird.
Items that are not safe on toys used for birds include: frayed ropes (could entangle bird feet and beaks); wire (might impale the bird); “jingle-bell” type bells (the bird’s feet might get stuck in the small cracks).
If you get a natural wood perch, be sure to scrub thoroughly before use, and do not use any cleaning products because many of these contain ingredients that can be toxic to birds.
Most birds need outside-of-cage time. This time must always be supervised and the space must always be safe.
You can even turn your porch into a screened-in aviary, and let your bird spend time in the outdoors.
If you regularly handle the bird, it will also be easier for you to take it to the vet’s office, since the bird will be relatively docile to touch.
If you have a finch or other bird that is not meant to be handled, this is not an issue. But if you have a bird that you wish to handle, is living in a small cage, or just needs more exercise, be sure to include exercise for the bird on a regular basis.
You can even talk to your bird. This is especially important during the first couple of years together. Birds are fast learners and will surprise you with their range of sound effects. Play music together. For example, your bird might learn to sing sweetly when you play the piano or other instrument.
Until birds reach sexual maturity, it’s impossible to gauge their aggressiveness. Whereas as juvenile bird may sit docilely on your shoulder, the bird may start to bite once it’s matured. Do not walk outside with the bird on your shoulder. It could fly away and not return.
Take your bird to the vet immediately if it gets sick. Birds can get even sicker very quickly; the sooner that the vet can see the bird, the better.
In hot weather, put the bird outside, either in its cage or on a perch (only have it out of its cage if its wings are clipped, so that it can’t fly away). Squirt the bird with water from a spray bottle. Birds love the cooling sensation. If it’s cold outside, you can buy a perch that mounts to your shower wall by suction cups and give the bird a shower indoors.
Change the bedding regularly. Remove droppings from perches/toys. Remove uneaten food that has been sitting around on the base of the cage. If your bird is molting (this is common with parrots, for example), there will be a need to vacuum up the molted feathers daily; this tends to occur when there is a warm spell. Only clean with basic, non-toxic cleaning supplies. Birds are easily poisoned, so find out if a product is safe for birds before using it.
Trimming is aimed at restricting, not preventing flight, and only the primary flight feathers are the subject of a trimming, so the trimmer must know what to do. The bird’s toenails may also need trimming, especially on larger adult birds. Usually toenails are not trimmed on baby or small birds, as birds need them to stay on the perches. But the toenails of adult parrots, for example, should be trimmed. Ask your veterinarian to explain how to do this safely.
An overheated bird: The feet will feel hot to touch, the bird may be panting (a rapid breathing rate), fluttering from the throat, red nares (nasal openings) and hot breath. All of these signs signal an emergency situation and you must contact the vet immediately. A freezing bird: The bird will hunch in, using its feathers to covers its feet and it will fluff out its feathers. Check for drafts, move the bird away from a cold room or area, and place the bird in a warmer spot. Windows can be a source of cold air during the winter months.
